Hairdressing Scissors Glossary: Every Term Explained
Written by Matt Grumley — a hairdresser and scissorsmith. Sharpening and designing scissors since 1991, founder of ShearGenius (est. 2007).
Scissor marketing is full of jargon that even working stylists find confusing. This glossary cuts through it. Every term is defined in plain English, with the technical context a hairdresser actually needs when buying, sharpening or comparing professional shears.
A — Alloy
A metal combined with other elements to improve hardness, corrosion resistance or edge retention. Most premium ShearGenius scissors are forged from Japanese Hitachi ATS-314 cobalt alloy; some models use Japanese Cobalt Alloy. Both are a full tier above the 440C stainless used in most sub-$300 imports.
ATS-314
Hitachi's premium cobalt-molybdenum tool steel. Rockwell 58-62 HRC, excellent edge retention, holds a true convex edge. The steel most Japanese top-tier scissors are forged from, including most ShearGenius premium models.
B — Bearing System
The pivot mechanism that lets the blades rotate against each other. A dual-bearing flat system (standard on every ShearGenius scissor) uses a machined race and ball bearings for a frictionless cut and years of tension stability.
Bevel Edge
A cheaper, flatter edge ground at 40-50°. Durable but push-cuts rather than slices. Found on consumer and student scissors. Not suitable for slide cutting.
C — Convex Edge
The Japanese hollow-ground edge at 20-30°. Razor sharp, slices cleanly, required for slide cutting and point cutting. Every ShearGenius scissor ships with a true convex edge.
Crane Handle
An ergonomic handle shape that drops the thumb lower than an offset, keeping the elbow down and the shoulder relaxed. Recommended for stylists with shoulder or neck strain.
D — Damascus
Layered steel produced by forge-welding multiple alloys together. Visually striking but the performance comes from the core steel, not the pattern. Buy the steel, not the photograph.
Drop Test
The professional tension-check: hold the scissors by one finger, lift the other blade to 12 o'clock, release. A properly tensioned scissor closes slowly and stops around 3-4 o'clock. Too fast = loose, no drop = too tight.
E — Edge Retention
How long a sharpened edge lasts before it needs re-sharpening. A function of steel hardness, grain structure and daily maintenance. Japanese ATS-314 and Cobalt Alloy retain an edge 2-3× longer than 440C.
Ergonomic
Designed to reduce strain on the hand, wrist, elbow and shoulder. Offset and crane handles are ergonomic; symmetric handles are not.
H — Hitachi
Japanese steel manufacturer that produces the ATS-314 billets used by premium scissor forgers including ShearGenius.
HRC (Rockwell Hardness)
The standardised hardness scale for cutting steels. 56-58 HRC = entry level, 58-60 HRC = professional, 60-62 HRC = premium. Higher is not always better — harder steel is more brittle.
O — Offset Handle
The most common ergonomic handle. The thumb ring is set forward of the finger ring, so the thumb barely moves while cutting. Reduces RSI and opens the wrist.
P — Pivot
The screw and bearing assembly at the centre of the scissor. The single most stressed component. Daily oiling extends pivot life by years — see our scissor oiling guide.
Point Cutting
Cutting into the ends of the hair at an angle to soften lines and remove weight. Requires razor-sharp tips and a true convex edge.
S — Slide Cutting
Running an open scissor down a section of hair to remove weight. Only works with a hollow-ground convex edge and correct tension. Destroys bevel-edged and under-oiled scissors.
Swivel Thumb
A rotating thumb ring that lets the thumb stay neutral through the cut. Reduces wrist strain for stylists with chronic RSI, but takes practice.
T — Tension
The pressure between the two blades, adjusted at the pivot. Wrong tension folds hair, destroys the edge, and causes RSI. See the drop test guide.
Texturiser / Thinner
A scissor with teeth on one blade for removing weight while keeping length. 7-15 teeth = chunking, 20-30 teeth = texturising, 30-40+ teeth = blending.
V — VG10
A premium Japanese stainless used by some scissor makers. Similar edge retention to ATS-314 but slightly less corrosion resistant. Marketed heavily by brands without access to Hitachi steel.