Hairdressing Scissor Blade Geometry: Convex, Bevel & Semi-Convex

Written by Matt Grumley, Australia's only combined Hairdresser, Scissorsmith, Designer and Educator. Founder of ShearGenius, est. 2007.

Steel sets the ceiling. Geometry decides how close to that ceiling the scissor actually gets. The same ATS-314 billet can be ground into a scissor that slide-cuts like silk or one that folds hair like a wet tea-towel — the difference is the blade profile.

The Three Edges That Matter

Convex (Hamaguri-ba)

The Japanese hollow-ground edge. The inside of each blade is slightly concave, and the cutting edge itself is a smooth convex curve meeting at 20-30°. Razor sharp, slices on contact, and absolutely required for slide cutting, point cutting and any modern dry-cutting technique. Every ShearGenius scissor ships with a true convex edge, hand-finished on Japanese water stones.

Semi-Convex

A compromise grind: convex on the outside, bevelled on the inside. Cheaper to manufacture and more forgiving of rough handling, but will not slide cut cleanly. Commonly found on mid-tier European and Korean scissors.

Bevel Edge

The traditional flat-ground edge at 40-50°. Durable, easy to sharpen on a basic machine, but push-cuts rather than slices. You can feel the hair being crushed rather than parted. Fine for blunt-cutting coarse hair; wrong for any modern technique.

Which Geometry for Which Technique

  • Slide cutting: Convex only. Bevel and semi-convex will drag and snag.
  • Point cutting: Convex preferred. The tip must be razor sharp and unchipped.
  • Blunt cutting wet hair: Any of the three will work; convex gives the cleanest line.
  • Texturising with a teethed blade: The cutting blade should still be convex — the teeth handle the weight removal.

How to Spot a True Convex Edge

Hold the scissor open under a bright light and sight down the ride line. A true convex edge shows a smooth, continuous curve with no flat facets. A bevel edge shows a distinct angular line. A semi-convex looks convex from the outside only — the inside face is flat.

Related Reading

Further Reading

More expert guides from Matt Grumley — 35+ years behind the chair.