Thinning Scissors: The Complete Guide for Australian Hairdressers

Thinning scissors are one of the most misunderstood tools in a hairdresser's kit. Used correctly, they remove bulk, add movement, and create seamless blending that elevates every haircut. Used incorrectly — or with a cheap pair — they leave visible steps, chop marks, and clients who never come back.

After 35 years behind the chair and sharpening over 100,000 pairs of scissors, I've seen every thinning scissors mistake in the book. This guide covers everything you need to know: what thinning scissors actually do, how to choose the right pair, tooth count, left-handed options, and maintenance.

What Are Thinning Scissors?

Thinning scissors (also called thinning shears, texturising scissors, or blending scissors) are a specialised hairdressing tool with one regular cutting blade and one blade with teeth (notches). When you close the scissors, hair passes through the teeth — some strands are cut, others pass through uncut.

The result is controlled bulk removal without changing the overall length or shape of the haircut. This is fundamentally different from cutting scissors, which cut every strand they contact.

Thinning Scissors vs Texturising Scissors

While the terms are often used interchangeably, there's a subtle professional distinction:

• Thinning scissors typically have 30-46 teeth and remove a higher percentage of hair per cut (40-70%). They're designed for bulk removal — reducing weight and volume in thick hair.
• Texturising scissors typically have 8-20 teeth (wider spacing) and remove less hair per cut (15-40%). They're designed for creating texture, movement, and softening hard cutting lines.

For the detailed comparison, read our guide: thinning scissors vs texturising scissors — what's the difference?

When to Use Thinning Scissors

Thinning scissors are essential for:

• Reducing bulk in thick hair — Australian hair, especially in humid climates, often carries excess weight. Thinning scissors remove volume without losing length.
• Blending layers — Create seamless transitions between different lengths. Thinning through the mid-lengths and ends softens hard lines left by cutting scissors.
• Softening the perimeter — Instead of a blunt, harsh line at the ends, a few passes with thinning scissors create a natural, lived-in finish.
• Texturising men's cuts — Barbers use thinning scissors to add movement and reduce weight in scissor-over-comb fades and textured crops.
• Managing cowlicks and problem areas — Strategic thinning in areas where hair sits heavy or pushes in the wrong direction helps the style fall naturally.

How to Choose Thinning Scissors

Tooth Count

The number of teeth determines how much hair is removed per cut:

For most Australian salon professionals, a thinning scissor with 28-35 teeth offers the best versatility — enough removal for thick hair, but fine enough for finishing work.

Steel Grade

The same steel principles that apply to cutting scissors apply to thinning scissors:

• Japanese Cobalt Alloy (56-58 HRC) — smooth, forgiving, ideal for apprentices learning thinning technique
• Japanese ATS-314 (58-60 HRC) — longer edge retention, consistent performance across demanding salon days
• Japanese Forged ATS-314 (60-62 HRC) — the ultimate in edge retention and precision for experienced cutters

Cheap thinning scissors made from inferior steel will catch, pull, and damage hair — the exact opposite of what they're supposed to do. Read the true cost of cheap hairdressing scissors.

Size

Thinning scissors typically come in 5.5" to 6.5". Most hairdressers match their thinning scissors to their cutting scissors size, or go slightly longer for reach. Our sizing guide helps you find the right fit.

Left-Handed Thinning Scissors

Left-handed hairdressers need specifically designed left-handed thinning shears — not just right-handed scissors flipped over. The blade orientation must be reversed so the toothed blade sits correctly against the hair when cutting with your left hand.

Using right-handed thinning scissors in your left hand causes the blades to push apart rather than together, leading to folding, pulling, and uneven results. For the full breakdown, read our left-handed hairdressing scissors guide.

ShearGenius offers left-handed options across our range, including thinning scissors. Browse our left-handed collection.

How to Use Thinning Scissors Properly

The technique matters as much as the tool:

1. Never thin at the roots. Thinning near the scalp creates short, spiky regrowth that sticks straight up. Work from the mid-lengths down.
2. Cut on dry hair when possible. You can see the true weight distribution on dry hair. Wet hair masks where the bulk actually sits.
3. Use the comb-and-close technique. Comb through a section, position the thinning scissors at mid-length, and close once. Check the result before cutting again.
4. Don't over-thin. You can always take more out, but you can't put it back. Start conservative and build up.
5. Point the scissors downward. Angling the thinning scissors down (towards the ends) creates a more natural finish than cutting straight across.
6. Avoid thinning fine hair. Fine or thin hair rarely needs thinning scissors. Over-thinning fine hair creates wispy, see-through ends that look damaged.

Thinning Scissors Maintenance

Thinning scissors need the same care as cutting scissors:

• Oil daily — one drop at the pivot before your first client. How to oil properly.
• Check tension regularly — adjust tension so blades close smoothly without catching.
• Professional sharpening — thinning scissors require a specialist sharpener who understands toothed blades. Each tooth must be individually addressed. Full sharpening guide.
• Clean after every client — hair fragments lodge between teeth and cause dragging if not removed.

Thinning scissors typically need sharpening slightly less often than cutting scissors because each tooth does less work per cut. But don't neglect them — dull thinning scissors pull and damage hair just as badly as dull cutting scissors. Learn how often to sharpen.

ShearGenius Thinning Scissors

Our thinning scissors are built to the same standard as our cutting range — Japanese steel, dual bearing flat tension system, and personally inspected by a scissorsmith with 35 years of hairdressing experience.

Browse our full scissors range including thinning options, or explore scissor bundles that pair cutting and thinning scissors at a better price.

Want to spread the cost? SlicePay lets you pay over 20 weekly instalments with zero interest.

Need your existing thinning scissors sharpened? We offer mobile sharpening across VIC, SA, and TAS, plus mail-in sharpening Australia-wide.

— Matthew Grumley
Founder, ShearGenius