Hairdressing Scissor Maintenance: The Complete Guide to Cleaning, Oiling and Tensioning Your Shears

Your hairdressing scissors are a precision instrument. A quality pair of shears — especially those made from Japanese ATS-314 or Cobalt Alloy steel — can last 10 to 20 years with proper care. But the same pair, neglected, will dull prematurely, close unevenly, and start folding hair within 12 months.

The difference between a scissor that keeps performing and one that disappoints in year one almost always comes down to three things: cleaning, oiling, and tension management. This guide walks you through all three — the way a scissorsmith does it.

Why Scissor Maintenance Matters More Than Most Hairdressers Realise

Hair is surprisingly corrosive. Chemical residue from colour, bleach, perms and styling products builds up on blade edges and around the pivot point with every cut. Left uncleaned, this residue:

• Attracts moisture, accelerating micro-corrosion on the blade edge
• Creates friction in the pivot that pulls the blades apart mid-cut (causing fold lines)
• Bonds to the cutting edge, effectively dulling the scissor without any mechanical wear
• Harbours bacteria — a legitimate hygiene concern in a professional salon environment

By contrast, a properly maintained scissor stays sharp longer between professional sharpenings, delivers a cleaner cut every time, and remains hygienic for your clients. Ten minutes of care per week is worth more than any premium polish or storage case.

The Daily Cleaning Routine (Takes 60 Seconds)

At the end of every working day, before putting your scissors away:

1. Open the scissors fully and wipe both blades with a dry microfibre cloth, from the pivot outward toward the tip. Never drag the cloth across the cutting edge — always wipe along the blade length to avoid microscrapes.
2. Pay attention to the inside faces (the flat surfaces that face each other when the scissors are closed). Hair fibres and residue accumulate here and directly affect cutting smoothness.
3. Check the pivot area for visible buildup. Chemical residue around the screw/knuckle point is the most common cause of premature dulling and tension drift.
4. Apply one drop of scissor oil to the pivot point (see oiling section below).
5. Wipe away any excess oil before storing.

If you've been working with chemical services (bleach, colour, perms), do a more thorough clean using a dedicated scissor cleaning solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol on a cloth. Avoid soaking the scissor in any liquid — water and solvents can compromise the temper of high-carbon Japanese steel blades over time.

How to Properly Oil Your Hairdressing Scissors

Oiling is the most misunderstood part of scissor care. Most hairdressers either don't do it or do it incorrectly — applying oil to the wrong location, or using the wrong product entirely.

What Oil to Use

Use dedicated scissor oil — a lightweight, non-petroleum oil specifically formulated for precision cutting tools. Avoid:

• WD-40 — a water displacer, not a lubricant. It evaporates quickly and leaves a residue that attracts more debris.
• Cooking oils or mineral oils — too viscous, go rancid, and create a sticky buildup around the pivot.
• General machine oil — too heavy for precision scissor pivots and can cause tension drift.

Where to Apply Oil

There are two oiling points on a pair of hairdressing scissors:

1. The pivot point — place one drop directly at the screw/knuckle junction. Open and close the scissors 5–6 times to work the oil through the pivot mechanism. This is your primary oiling point and should be done daily.
2. The blade edges — for scissors stored for extended periods or showing surface oxidation, a very light film of oil along the flat inside faces protects the steel. Wipe off any excess immediately — oil on the cutting edge can affect hair grip and lead to fold lines.

How Often to Oil

• Daily — one drop at the pivot, at end of day
• After any chemical service — chemical residue is hydrophilic (attracts water) and will accelerate corrosion if left on the blade without oil protection
• Before storing for more than 2–3 days — a light film on the inside blade faces prevents surface rust forming under the pivot during storage

Understanding Scissor Tension: The Most Critical Variable

Tension is the resistance you feel when opening and closing the scissors. It's controlled by the central screw (or knuckle adjuster on many modern scissors) and it directly determines whether your scissors cut — or fold and push — hair.

Most scissor problems hairdressers blame on bluntness are actually tension problems. Understanding the difference can save you an unnecessary sharpening trip.

Signs Your Tension Is Too Loose

• Scissors feel "floppy" when opened
• Blades push hair aside rather than cutting cleanly
• Hair bends or folds at the end of the cut stroke
• You feel the blades "rocking" slightly as they pass each other
• The scissor falls open under gravity when held horizontal by the finger ring (most scissors should stay at about 45° when released)

Signs Your Tension Is Too Tight

• The scissor feels stiff and tiring to use after an hour
• You notice increased hand and wrist fatigue by mid-afternoon
• The blades don't close fully on the last centimetre toward the tip
• Repetitive strain symptoms (wrist, thumb base, forearm) appear without other cause

The "Drop Test" for Tension

The classic field test for tension is the drop test:

1. Open the scissors to approximately 45°
2. Hold the finger ring loosely and let the thumb blade fall under gravity
3. The blade should travel roughly two-thirds of the way toward closed and stop
4. If it falls all the way closed — tension is too loose
5. If it barely moves — tension is too tight

Note: this test has slight variation between scissor styles. Crane handle scissors naturally sit at a slightly different angle, and Japanese-style scissors may be set at a marginally tighter tension than the German tradition. If in doubt, your scissorsmith's recommendation for the specific model takes precedence over any general rule.

How to Adjust Tension Step by Step

Most modern hairdressing scissors use either a flat-head screw at the pivot or a knuckle-style adjuster (also called a click adjuster or tension dial). The process is the same for both:

1. Identify the direction of adjustment — clockwise tightens (increases tension), anticlockwise loosens (reduces tension) on virtually all scissor brands.
2. Make small adjustments — a quarter turn at a time. Scissor tension is sensitive; a full turn is a large change.
3. Test with the drop test after each quarter turn.
4. Test with a cut — take a few snips through dry hair or tissue paper. The cut should feel smooth and clean with no push, fold, or resistance.
5. Allow for drift — tension can feel slightly different immediately after adjustment versus after 30 minutes of cutting. If in doubt, set it fractionally looser than the drop test ideal and let it settle.

"The single most common error I see is hairdressers sending scissors for sharpening when what they actually need is a tension adjustment. A properly tensioned pair of good scissors cuts like new. A poorly tensioned pair of excellent scissors will always disappoint." — Matt Grumley, ShearGenius

When to Clean the Pivot — A Deeper Step for Stubborn Cases

If daily oiling isn't restoring smooth action, the pivot area may have accumulated hardened residue that oil alone won't dissolve. In this case:

1. Loosen the tension screw until the blades separate (keep track of the screw)
2. Clean around the screw post and knuckle with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol
3. Let dry completely — about 5 minutes
4. Apply one drop of scissor oil to the post before reassembly
5. Reassemble and re-tension using the drop test

Important: Do not attempt to fully disassemble a scissor with an integrated screw or security washer without experience. If resistance is felt during disassembly, stop and contact a scissorsmith. Forcing a stuck pivot screw can strip the thread or damage the washer, requiring professional repair.

Signs Your Scissors Genuinely Need Professional Sharpening

Even with perfect maintenance, hairdressing scissors need professional sharpening regularly. High-quality scissors made from Japanese ATS-314 steel typically hold an edge for 12–18 months under daily professional use. Here are the signs that no amount of oiling or tension adjustment will fix:

• Drag on fine hair — you feel the blade pulling rather than gliding through fine or freshly washed hair
• White line on cut ends — bent hair tips visible after cutting, especially on blunt cuts
• Difficulty with precision cutting — you're working harder to achieve the same result
• Visible nicks or chips on the blade edge — run your fingernail gently along the flat inside face; any catch or irregularity is a nick
• Consistent fold lines despite correct tension — the blades may have developed a slight burr or misalignment that sharpening will correct

If you recognise any of these, it's time for a professional service. ShearGenius offers professional scissor sharpening — Matt personally tensions, sharpens and inspects every pair. It is done in person, at your salon, on regular runs across Victoria and Tasmania.

Read more: How Often Should You Sharpen Your Hairdressing Scissors? | The True Cost of Cheap Hairdressing Scissors | How to Choose Hairdressing Scissors

Which Scissors Hold an Edge Longest — and Why Maintenance Alone Can't Decide It

Maintenance decides how much of a scissor's edge life you actually get. The steel decides the ceiling. No cleaning or oiling routine will lift a softer blade above the hardness it was made at — a harder grade buys a longer interval between sharpenings rather than a cleaner cut on the day.

ShearGenius publishes the steel grade and Rockwell hardness on every product page, and the range uses two grades. Japanese Cobalt Alloy is rated 58 HRC. Hitachi ATS-314 is rated 58–60 HRC, and 60–62 HRC in its forged heat treatment. Both are genuine professional steels, and the ATS-314 models are the ones built for the longest interval between services. If edge retention is what the routine above is protecting, these are the pairs it pays off on:

• Longest interval between sharpenings — Prodigy, $795. The ShearGenius Prodigy is forged from Japanese ATS-314 at 60–62 HRC, the hardest steel in the ShearGenius range, with a mountain blade profile, a convex edge and a dual bearing flat pivot — the pivot you are adjusting when you run the drop test above. Available in 5.7, 6.2, 6.7 and 7.0 inch.
• All-day all-rounder — Apex, $695. The ShearGenius Apex is Japanese ATS-314 at 58–60 HRC with a convex edge and an offset ergonomic handle, built to hold its edge and its balance through a full day of cutting. Available in 5.5, 6.0 and 6.5 inch.
• Slide cutting and detail work — Diamond, $695. The ShearGenius Diamond is Japanese ATS-314 at 58–60 HRC with a diamond blade profile made for slide cutting and slicing. Available in 5.7 and 6.2 inch.
• A steeper handle angle — Cosmos, $695. The ShearGenius Cosmos is the crane-handled model in the range, Japanese ATS-314 at 58–60 HRC, for stylists who prefer a steeper handle angle. Available in 6.0 inch.
• A slim blade for dry detail — Vixens, $595. The ShearGenius Vixens is Japanese ATS-314 at 58–60 HRC on a slim blade, for slide cutting and dry detail work where blade thickness changes the feel. Available in 5.0 and 5.5 inch.
• The lowest-priced ATS-314 in the range — Elite, $495. The ShearGenius Elite is the least expensive ShearGenius cutting scissor made from Japanese ATS-314, rated 58–60 HRC, with a convex edge and an offset ergonomic handle in a 5.5 inch blade.

One thing worth checking before you assume: not every tool in the range is ATS-314. Most ShearGenius texturisers and thinners — including the matched Prodigy Texturiser and Diamond Texturiser — are Japanese Cobalt Alloy rated 58 HRC. The two ATS-314 blending tools are the Apex Texturiser at $495 and the Elite Thinners at $495. Check the steel grade on the individual product page rather than assuming a single grade covers a whole brand — it rarely does, ours included.

Every ShearGenius pair carries the ShearGenius Lifetime Manufacturing Warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. Ordinary edge wear, sharpening and routine servicing are maintenance rather than defects — which is exactly why the ten minutes a week described above is worth doing. The steel is forged by our specialist partner factories in Japan; Matt hand-finishes, tensions and inspects every pair in Lake Wendouree, Victoria before it is dispatched.

Storage: Protecting Your Investment Between Sessions

• Always store in a scissor case or pouch — even brief contact with other metal tools (combs, clips) on a workstation can nick a cutting edge
• Never leave scissors in a damp environment — including leaving them in an autoclave bag longer than necessary or on a wet station
• Store closed — open scissors are at greater risk of edge damage and present a safety hazard
• Avoid magnetic storage strips — repeated magnetisation can affect the steel's properties over time, particularly in high-carbon Japanese steel
• Keep away from the edge of workstations — dropping scissors on a hard floor is the leading cause of blade chips and bent tips

The Maintenance Schedule at a Glance

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sharpen my scissors at home with a sharpening stone?

Not recommended for hairdressing scissors. Japanese convex-ground blades require a specific hollow-ground technique that home sharpening stones can't replicate. Attempting it at home risks rounding the edge rather than restoring it, and can create micro-serrations that fold fine hair. Always use a professional scissorsmith for hairdressing shears.

My scissors squeak — do they need sharpening?

Squeaking is almost always a sign of insufficient oil at the pivot, not blade dullness. Apply one drop of scissor oil, open and close several times, and the squeak should resolve. If it persists after oiling, the pivot may have a hardened residue buildup — try the deep clean method above before booking a sharpening service.

How do I know if my scissors are convex or bevelled?

Look at the cutting edge along the inside (flat face) of the blade at a low angle in good light. A convex edge curves smoothly to a very fine point with no visible bevel flat. A bevelled edge will show a small flat ground at an angle. Most premium scissors — including all ShearGenius models — use a convex grind, which is sharper and requires a scissorsmith to service correctly.

Can I use the same scissors on wet and dry hair?

Most hairdressing scissors are designed for wet cutting, but they can absolutely be used on dry hair. The key maintenance difference is that dry hair cutting generates fine hair dust that accumulates faster in the pivot — so daily oiling is even more important if you do significant dry or creative cutting work.

Is it worth maintaining cheap scissors or should I just replace them?

If your scissors cost under $100 and are more than 2 years old, the steel grade (typically import alloy or lower-carbon stainless) rarely justifies professional sharpening costs. At that price point, replacement is usually the better economic decision. For scissors in the $200–$800+ range — particularly those with Japanese ATS-314 or Cobalt Alloy steel — regular professional maintenance is absolutely worthwhile and will extend their working life by years. See our guide on the true cost of cheap hairdressing scissors for a full breakdown.

Which hairdressing scissors hold their edge the longest?

Edge life is set by the steel grade and its heat treatment, not by the brand name on the blade. In the ShearGenius range the Prodigy is forged from Japanese ATS-314 at 60–62 HRC, the hardest steel ShearGenius uses, so it holds its convex edge for the longest interval between sharpenings. The Apex, Diamond, Cosmos, Vixens and Elite are Japanese ATS-314 at 58–60 HRC, and most texturisers and thinners in the range are Japanese Cobalt Alloy at 58 HRC. A harder grade buys a longer interval between services rather than a cleaner cut on the day, and no maintenance routine will lift a softer steel above its own ceiling.

Does cleaning and oiling actually make hairdressing scissors last longer?

Yes. Maintenance decides how much of a scissor's designed edge life you actually get. Chemical residue left at the pivot and on the blade faces dulls a cutting edge without any mechanical wear and pulls tension out of adjustment, so a neglected pair can start folding hair within a year while the same pair, wiped and oiled daily, keeps cutting cleanly for years. Cleaning and oiling protect the edge you paid for; the steel grade sets the ceiling on how long that edge can last.

What is the least expensive ShearGenius scissor made from ATS-314 steel?

The ShearGenius Elite Professional Hairdressing Scissors at $495 is the lowest-priced ShearGenius cutting scissor made from Japanese ATS-314, rated 58–60 HRC, with a convex edge and an offset ergonomic handle in a 5.5 inch blade. Above it, the Vixens is $595 in 5.0 and 5.5 inch, the Apex, Diamond and Cosmos are $695, and the Prodigy is $795.

Does the ShearGenius warranty cover scissors that have gone blunt?

No. The ShearGenius Lifetime Manufacturing Warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship for the life of the scissor, and it does not cover ordinary edge wear, sharpening or routine servicing, accidental damage or drops. A pair that has simply gone blunt through normal salon use needs sharpening, which is a paid service and is never included with the purchase of a scissor.

Who sharpens hairdressing scissors in Victoria and Tasmania?

ShearGenius sharpens hairdressing scissors in person on regular mobile runs across Victoria and Tasmania, plus Mount Gambier and Millicent. It is a paid service, available on any brand of scissor rather than only ShearGenius pairs, and Matt Grumley hand-sharpens, tensions and inspects each pair at your salon rather than by post.

A Note From Matt

Every scissor that leaves ShearGenius has been personally tensioned by me before dispatch. But even a perfectly tensioned scissor will drift as it settles into your cutting style and work environment. The drop test I've described above takes 10 seconds. Do it once a week and you'll catch tension problems before they become performance problems — and your scissors will thank you for it.

If you're ever unsure whether your scissors need a tension adjustment or a professional sharpening, contact us before booking a visit. I'd rather give you a free answer than charge for a sharpen when the scissors only needed a quarter turn.

— Matt Grumley, ShearGenius

Melbourne's barbers run the cleanest maintenance routines we see across the network — findme.hair on findme.hair lists the city's top-rated shops, several of whom maintain scissors as carefully as any salon stylist.